| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| inlandboatman |
Posted - 07/15/2005 : 10:14:23 PM
I've been looking for a site like this for years! Thanks Carvermitch! |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| inlandboatman |
Posted - 09/02/2005 : 07:56:36 AM
There are secondary operations for those cams involving grinding and polishing, so I've heard. I would expect some different specifications like hardening zones on the faces of the lobes.
I've also heard that the later setups don't bother with counter rotating engines but use the trannies or vee drives to reverse rotation. |
| Carverchick |
Posted - 08/31/2005 : 10:37:26 PM
[quote]Originally posted by inlandboatman
The starboard engine is the counter-rotating version, I think the only difference is that standard rotation uses a timing chain, and counter-rotation uses a timing gear.
Looking at your post and wanted to let you know that I just had my starboard engine (Ford 302 V8) rebuilt and understand that the reverse rotation is all in the cam. |
| Rob |
Posted - 08/26/2005 : 9:55:10 PM
No it's polyall 2000 the manufacturer is sold out had to allot of looking around to find some.. its 59.95 for 1 liter which makes 2 liters when mixed http://www.polyall.com. Works great. |
| inlandboatman |
Posted - 08/26/2005 : 10:07:24 AM
Would that be Dr. Rot? I've used that myself in a couple of places. He's got a good website, RottenBoats.
I've got my deck patches in, so now I'm ready at last to button down the cabin aft. Then I can start patching around the windshield area forward. |
| Rob |
Posted - 08/25/2005 : 11:06:49 PM
With these gas prices anyone thought of converting a mariner to sail power....LOL or better yet electric.. Just finished redoing my teak today, spent 3 days striping and sanding and 2 days finishing with tuffsheild best stuff ever.. also found a product that converts dry rot into plastic works great could not believe it myself.. |
| inlandboatman |
Posted - 08/25/2005 : 10:01:44 PM
For a diferent boat project, I seriously considered a pair of air cooled Kohler 16 HP 4 cycle engines. With vertical shafts, it's possible they could run sail drives. With horizontal shafts, it's possible they could run through BW transmissions, though the power loss in the tranny is fairly high.
Considering it's a utility engine designed for constant duty speed, the Kohler, or any of the other power equipment engines in the 15-25 HP range, would be ideal for running hydraulic pumps, which in turn could power hydraulic motors. In this way you can get twin-screw maneuverability with a single small engine.
I wouldn't accept less than 60 HP in a boat like the Mariner, but for the multihull design I am working on, which is 28' with 12' beam but much lighter than the Mariner, such a setup would be practicable.
Of course, this is considering hull speeds only, no faster. Anyway, since I couldn't find any reliable numbers on a hydraulic setup, I decided the multihull would be better off with a pair of outboards or small sterndrives, the main reason being proven powerplants are better than experimental powerplants. |
| n/a |
Posted - 08/25/2005 : 8:50:16 PM
how big is the lawn mower?
frank |
| inlandboatman |
Posted - 08/24/2005 : 11:02:49 PM
That's just it, I want to keep the Velvet Drive and find a stern leg that bolts up to it. I have Glen-L's book on Inboard Motor Inatallations and they mention a manufacturer called Marine Drive Systems in NJ that makes stern drive without a tranny, but I can't find anything on the web, maybe they are out of business.
My 302s already have 2V carbs, I think I'd do OK for gas consumption with just the one engine. Even if they had 4V, I'd just keep the throttle down and out of the secondaries - in fact I'd be better off because the primaries on a 4V are smaller than the 2V. Runs a bit hot that way, though.
I think I have the biggest props I can get that clear the hull by the minimum. Actually I believe sterndrive would be a disadvantage in the prop, they have small props by comparison to inboards, as far as I can ascertain.
At the dock, gas was 2.88 two weeks ago, probably over 3.00 by now. Look for 5.00 before it levels out, say by next summer. That's life, when the Chinese are buying every barrel they can get their hands on. At five bucks a gallon, though, synthesizing from coal becomes economically viable, so that's probably what will happen.
We might as well get ready for these prices. Slow speeds and small engines will be the only way for us working men to stay on the water. Hey, how about lawn mower engines hooked to the shaft with pulleys and belts?
OK, that's not funny. Sorry, guys. |
| n/a |
Posted - 08/24/2005 : 7:42:38 PM
out drives do come with there own transmission. you will have to turn the motor around and beef up the transom why would you want to get rid of the velvet drives they are the most reliable tranny out there for the money.i can understand the want for smaller motors for fuel purposes. did you ever consider loosing the 4 barrel carbs for 2 barrels ,it may be a cheaper fix. you can try bigger props, more bite less rpm.that is what carver did in the 80s when prices started getting out of control.what is your present price for a gallon of regular gas at a gas station now? in my area it is going for 2.85 a gallon.it is up 1 dollar from a year ago, what a drag.
frank |
| inlandboatman |
Posted - 08/23/2005 : 10:12:18 PM
OK, I've spent some time poring over diesel power links and I vote ixnay.
I realize they are ideal marine engines, and some used ones can be had relatively cheap, but by relatively I mean they are still expensive. Add to that the obnoxious smell and the racket, and I do believe I will pass, at least for a coastal motorboat like the Mariner.
For myself, I believe I will focus on converting to a single engine stern drive. I'm told that the Merc Bravo units are the way to go here, but I'm still pretty ignorant about stern drives in general. Like, does the Bravo have a transmission? I already have a transmission, I don't want to buy a stern drive with a transmission. All I need is the leg.
Unless, of course, I can find a nice package deal with a V6 or a 4 cyl all ready to bolt up. In which case I'll ditch my 302/Velvet Drive. This should be an interesting winter project, tracking down a good stern drive for the old girl. |
| inlandboatman |
Posted - 08/22/2005 : 10:06:46 PM
Yes. My port engine is an automotive rebuild 302 Ford long block. As far as I know the only thing to look out for is freeze plugs when operating in salt water, they need to be marine grade.
I don't think our carbs have shim plates, because the engines are installed level when using V-drives or stern drives, but I could be wrong.
The starboard engine is the counter-rotating version, I think the only difference is that standard rotation uses a timing chain, and counter-rotation uses a timing gear.
I am open to correction on these points, my friends. But I do know the tales of special alloy blocks for marine engines and so forth is just myth.
My old Owens had a 327 Chevy solid-lifter, Mallory dual point hi-performance engine right off the GM assembly lines. Owens called it a Flagship engine and the manual never ever referred to its Chevy pedigree but that's what it was. |
| n/a |
Posted - 08/22/2005 : 8:49:23 PM
i am not sure about fords but i know Chevy blocks are the same.call your local ford dealer or junk yard they will know for sure.
frank |
| Rob |
Posted - 08/22/2005 : 11:41:40 AM
Does anyone know if a 351 ford car engine block will work in my boat which has a orginal 351 ford in it now. just looking to keep a spare engine ready to go. |
| inlandboatman |
Posted - 08/22/2005 : 07:19:40 AM
I can rebuild my Ford 302s for about $2000 and buy a lot of gas for the $25000 difference.
Diesels are more dependable and extend range, but that is a lot of money. |
| Rob |
Posted - 08/21/2005 : 9:15:41 PM
Just met the guy who own this company, chech his web site out
he say he can get my caver up to 35 knot at 8 gal per hour. single engine. http://www.kent.net/amp/
he live just down the road where i keep my boat.. he qutoed about 27,000 for the engine. |
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