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foodwatch2003
USA
18 Posts |
 Posted - 06/07/2006 : 12:52:17 PM
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I have a 1977 Carver Mariner 33' and need to replace window tracks and seal the many leaks. Someone told me once before that the glass can be removed without removing the teak trim. I seem to remember that they could be lifted upward from outside the boat, but there appears not to be enough clearance. Can anyone tell me what the trick is? (If no trick, then how do I remove them. Thanks, Ed
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n/a
148 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2006 : 6:15:51 PM
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| THERE IS NO TRICK. CARVER MAKES A GOOD BOAT BUT DOES NOT MAKE A GOOD BOAT TO FIX. TO GET THE WINDOWS OUT YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE BOTTOM OR TOP TRIM BOARD TO GET TO THE TRACK. I SUGGEST YOU REMOVE THE LOWER TRIM MEMBER, THAT WAY IF THERE IS ANY ROT THAT IS WHERE IT WILL PROBABLE BE. TO REMOVE THE TRIM YOU FIRST HAVE TO GET AT THE SCREWS,I FOUND IF YOU USE A BRAD POINT 3/8 INCH DRILL BIT TO GET DOWN TO THE SCREW HEAD IT DOES NOT DAMAGE THE THE SCREW IF YOU ARE CAREFULLY. THEN USE A SMALL POINTED TOOL TO PICK OUT THE REST OF THE JUNK OUT OF THE SCREW.CARVER USED REED PRINCE SCREWS , IT WOULD BE TO YOUR ADVANTAGE TO GET A REED PRINCE SCREW DRIVER TIP TO GET THEM OUT.IT CAN BE PURCHASED FROM BOAT US.SAVE THE SCREWS GOOD BRASS SCREWS ARE EXPENSIVE.. THE REST IS EASY.I REPLACED MINE WITH PLASTIC TRACKS BOUGHT AT HOME DEPOT.GOOD LUCK AND TAKE YOUR TIME. LOOK AT IT AS NOT A PROJECT BUT AS THERAPY, OR AS A LESSON IN PATIENCE. GOOD LUCK |
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Carverchick
USA
17 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2006 : 9:18:37 PM
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Hi, guys! Frank, thanks for the email! It has been a while. I am so glad you are discussing this topic. I, just yesterday, was looking at my window trim. When I wash the boat, I get water in the cabin from the leaking bottom trim (or the lack thereof). I can do this!!!Thanks so much for the info!
Deb |
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carvermitch
Canada
407 Posts |
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Carverchick
USA
17 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2006 : 9:51:14 PM
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Paul,
Great to be back!!! I sure have missed you all. There are several topics on here today that sure are useful to me. Be safe and have fun!!!
Deb |
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foodwatch2003
USA
18 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2006 : 3:59:48 PM
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| Thanks Frank... I guess I could wish for an easy trick, but when it comes to boats they are few and far between lol. I will start digging this weekend. Unfortunately, I have rot also on the plywood inside the fiberglass cabin walls just to the rear of the cabin windows. I suspect that I will have to excavate from the inside to get at it. I think the rot is too extensive to use any fillers. Just ordered $500 of new stainless to replace all the cracked/broken/leaky zymac deck hardware. Still cheaper than a shrink. Thanks again for your advice. Ed |
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foodwatch2003
USA
18 Posts |
Posted - 06/12/2006 : 10:02:05 AM
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Update on Window Repairs.... Well, this weekend was my first attempt at window repair in my 32 Mariner('77). Clearly, for me at least, it was easier to remove the top trim. On the 33 however, several screws are behind the galley cabinet which is a MAJOR pain to remove (Suggest a right angle phillips). The advice on getting Reed-Prince is worth listening to. I could not find one locally, so I ended up drilling out several of the screws after stripping the fragile heads. I will replace them with square head stainless and bung them over. To remove the tracks, use a hacksaw blade to gut the small tacks used to hold in the upper track. In my case I found it not necessary to remove the mahogany piece that the upper track was "nailed" to. After cutting the tacks, slide a knife along where the track meets the wood to break any glue or caulking. Then tip the window and track about 10 degrees toward the inside and you will be able to slide the tracks off (they may come out in pieces). Now you can remove the windows from the inside and then gently remove the lower double u channel (this will VERY likely come out in pieces).
Home Depot appears to not carry the double u track anymore :-( Another source is the very nice and VERY expensive beckson marine grade tracking. I bought my track from Defender Industries. Should arrive soon. Next, I throughly dried the lower wood trim with a heat gun, cleaned out the weep holes and then applied a "git rot" type epoxy to the channel being sure to let it soak in thoroughly and dry overnight.
Once I receive the track, I will report on the installation. Hope this helps others....
Ed |
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bullet
USA
34 Posts |
Posted - 06/14/2006 : 11:30:44 AM
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This window topic is always big with older carvers. My 78 mariner 2896 also is in need of window tracks. I went to a local glass dealer here in my home town and he ordered some double stainless steel wrapped, felt lined, teflon coated on the bottom,for easier sliding,window track . hope to install real soon. Price was not bad and should last a lot longer than most other tracks. But we are tired of refurbish work so now we are cruising instead of working all the time.If your still looking for track check your local windshield repair and glass shop. This stuff i bought is listed for marine and rv use. Good Luck
BULLET |
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foodwatch2003
USA
18 Posts |
Posted - 06/16/2006 : 10:33:19 AM
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Window update......
I received the Beckson CH-2 UU channel and installed the port side last night. After removing the top trim piece of mahogany and scraping out the old weathered channels, I sealed the bottom section of mahogany that holds the track with a git-rot like resin after drying it with a heat gun. I let it cure overnight then installed the lower track first using a marine adhesive and 1" solid brass brads to help hold things together while the adhesive cures... I then placed the windows in the bottom track to help form the channel in a straight line since it is flexible. While holding the windows in place at a 45 degr. angle, I positioned the top track over both pieces of glass, applied a small amount of adhesive and slid it all back into place. Then several brads were used to help hold things while the adhesive cured. After all is done, remount the top strip of mahogany. I am using stainless screws with finishing washers so removal will be easier next time. My curtains will hide the screws for the most part anyway. I am debating whether to apply marine caulking to the small gap that exists between the inside of the channel and the mahogany trim (about 1/8"). Since the wood below the channel is fully encapsulated in resin, I think I will leave it as it is and review the drainage during the year. I carefully drilled 3/16" diam holes through the opening in the brass weepholes being sure to penetrate the UU channel in both the outside and the middle ribs of the channel. This should provide adequate drainage. Time will tell.......
This weekend I will do the starboard side.
Sorry to bore all you salty Mariners with all this detail, but from the response, I suspect there are many who have been debating this very project.
Cheers,
Ed |
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carvermitch
Canada
407 Posts |
Posted - 06/16/2006 : 5:33:01 PM
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Thanks, This is good for those who have to do there windows and its what this forum is about.
Thanks Ed for the report, Im sure there are a few out there who are now going to tackle their windows this season in the same way.
Regards
paul
http://www.carvermariner.com |
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foodwatch2003
USA
18 Posts |
Posted - 06/19/2006 : 10:06:05 AM
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The window job is finished (almost). After letting everything cure, I power washed the flybridge and made an interesting discovery... On the 33 Carver ('77-ish), the drain holes where the flybridge attaches to the cabin top are located fore and aft and just happen to line up EXACTLY with the window drains in both the front and rear of the window channels. As I power washed the cabin top the water POURED into the forward window channel and completely overwhelms the drain. Because the lower track is outside the upper window track, this water goes right into the window channel. It then gets over the mahogany and into the forward cabin despite the best sealing job. I dont know if the 28 has this same geometry. I have ordered a roll of marine grade J channel to place around the entire window opening to force the cabin top water directly onto the deck. This might also explain why the channels are always full of decomposing leaves. They get trapped on the flybridge, decompose and drip down with the water right into the tracks.
The flexible J channel is available from www.marinegutters.com and is about $85 for a 50' roll. It comes backed with a 3m adhesive foam tape so no drilling is necessary. It is available in a few basic colors. Hopefully, this will end the leaky windows once and for all. Other than the downpour created by the powerwashing, everything is bone dry and the windows actually slide again....the saga continues..... |
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bullet
USA
34 Posts |
Posted - 06/19/2006 : 2:50:53 PM
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GREAT information, thanks for sharing especially the source of the j channel. I intend to do the same with my 78 mariner. thanks
BULLET |
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foodwatch2003
USA
18 Posts |
Posted - 06/22/2006 : 09:56:28 AM
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| Received my rubber self-adhesive J channel today. Cleaned the area with alcohol and will apply tonight weather permitting. This stuff looks really nice. The 33' Mariner is very different in that there is no window across the bow. (a molded in bench seat is there). Also the cabin top goes further forward than the side windows. This requires that the new channel be applied in a "semicircle" or "semi-elipse" with each end terminating near the deck. I will try to get a few pictures of the finished product. |
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foodwatch2003
USA
18 Posts |
Posted - 06/23/2006 : 1:00:44 PM
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Installed the rubber J channel last night. This is really nice stuff. I heated it (left it in 90 degree sun) to help make it most pliable and I was easily able to make the 75 degree turns at either end of the windows. The adhesive tape seems to be very agressive. I ran it down to about one inch from the deck at either end. Unfortunately, since I followed the contour of the fiberglass, there is not much slope in the J channel, so I suspect it may overflow in a hard rain, but it should keep the torrent from the flybridge out of the front and rear window channels(where the slope is good).
I bought a 50' roll and had about 15-16' left over on my 33 Mariner. I suspect the 28 would use somewhat less. The first rain storm will tell... probably tonight. Tomorrow we install 10 yards of carpet...... Hopefully it will remain dry... |
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foodwatch2003
USA
18 Posts |
Posted - 06/26/2006 : 11:48:39 AM
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End of Leaky Window Story.... (I hope)
Finished installing carpet everywhere but forward berth. Then the skies opened up and many inches of rain fell overnight. I'm happy to report the carpet is all still dry..... So I guess the window problem is solved. The J channel isn't a perfect solution, but it carries away 80% of the water in a downpour. Because of the long run with little or no pitch (7-8') on a 33' Mariner, there was some overflow, but the new window channels were able to keep up with it. Next is plumbing.... Hope this is helpful to others debating the task.... |
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edmund_vik
7 Posts |
Posted - 05/01/2007 : 10:06:57 PM
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| I have the same problem. Can you send any pictures of the repair? Also, does anyone know how to repair rotted hull bottom core? It came from a leaking transducer. Thanks for the help. Great Forum! |
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Topic |
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Window Repair
